Do I Need Professionally Taken Photographs in my Modelling Portfolio?

The Misunderstood Modelling Portfolio

New models tend to think that their portfolio is all-important in getting that first agency contract. Yet many agencies seem to downplay the importance of a portfolio. In particular, agencies often cast doubt on the value of professionally-taken  photographs in helping a prospective model get accepted by an agency.

At the same time, photographers and art directors - the people who actually book models - are usually very  much more interested in a model's portfolio, or their z-card. It's hard to imagine anyone actually agreeing to book a model without having seen examples of their work with other professionals.

So what's the truth? Is money spent on good portfolio photographs likely to be an investment or just an unwarranted expense? As a model, do you need professionally-taken portfolio pictures?

This article attempts to deal sensibly with the issue. A lot of people won't like it because it's not in their interests for you to know the truth. But if you're an aspiring model, you should read on and learn the things agencies don't want you to know...

Fact 1 - Agencies are not staffed by creative people

Much as they might like to cast themselves as an important part of the creative industries, the role of an agency is really just that of a bureaucrat. They simply a way of putting the creative people - the photographers and art directors - in contact with the models they want.

Agencies often claim they can spot potential models from any old snapshot, but simple logic says otherwise. Few famous models were taken on by the first agency they contacted. If agency people were so good at spotting raw talent, why would that be?

The fact is agency people can't reliably spot your talent, even when you're standing right in front of them. To suggest an informed decision can be based on any old snapshot is simply farcical.

Fact 2 - Agencies don't make the rules

There's another obvious limitation on agency's expertise - they aren't the people who actually decide which models get work! That is down to the photographers and art directors who book those models.

In truth, agencies only know what look is 'in' by seeing which of their models are being booked. And agencies are often guilty of being far too narrow-minded about the types of models on their books. That means they either won;t even try to find work for you because they don't think your look is 'in' or you'll always be competing with lots of very similar models from the same agency for every job.

Fact 3 - Agencies make their money from you, the model

So, why do agencies so often say 'don't bother getting proper photographs done before contacting us, just send in a snapshot'?

In many cases it's because they have lucrative deals with one or more photographer friends and will earn a cut of the cost of creating your portfolio.

They will most likely organise printing z-cards for you, at your expese. If they have to licence another photographer's images, they won't be able to keep as much of the money they charge you.

Of course, you may well be told you can go to any photographer you like, but if you don't choose one of their people you'll probably be told the pictures are no good...

Sometimes an agency will offer to pay for your portfolio shoot, book and z-cards and take the cost from your future earnings. You might think that suggests they are confident  they can get you work.

The catch is that, as with musicians and record companies, you may be paying back those promotional costs for a long, long time. And you may be exclusively contracted to that one agency for as long as that takes. You end up working mainly to benefit them instead of yourself.


 Fact 4 - The customer is king, so provide what the customer wants

Whatever an agency says to you, they are not able to give you work. That's down to the people who will actually pay the bills. Those are the people you really have to impress. You do that with a great portfolio and with great z-cards.

A portfolio is usually a book of photographs and magazine cuttings. An experienced model will have a portfolio which mainly consists of images of work she has done. A new model necessarily cannot use images from previous jobs as she hasn't done enough, or any at all. Since she has only one portfolio, the pictures are usually original prints or magazine pages so there are no licencing issues to consider. Even if she has plenty of work behind her, she may still want to show photographs of herself doing types of work she aspires to but has not yet done as part of a paid job.

Z-cards are similar. These are most often A5 size glossy cards with one or more pictures on one side and smaller images on the other, plus all the necessary information about the model. It will include her personal details - height, bust, eye colour, hair colour and lots more as well possibly a resume of previous work and a list of work for which she would like to be considered. A z-card will most likely only show pictures which were done for the purpose.

So, we're back to needing good quality photographs in a variety of styles. You'll need to licence them to be  used in that way, but there's no getting away from it. If you want to have a modelling career, you will have to spend a sensible amount of money on good professional portfolio pictures in the styles you want.

Fact 5 - You're a self-employed businesswoman!


The biggest mistake most new models make is to fundamentally misunderstand the nature of the business itself. As a professional model, you are your own business. You are the only saleable product you have. You must think of yourself as an entrepreneur. If you go into modelling thinking like an employee, you're lost. No-one will pay you if you don't get work. No-one will help you out with advice or expertise unless they expect to gain themselves. And there's no sick or holiday pay, either. It's a tough world out there!


Basically, it's up to you to ensure that whatever you do is in your best interests. Agencies and photographers alike will take exactly the same attitude. Don't expect any favours and you won't be disappointed. Anyone who tells you they put your interests ahead of their own is being at best condescending, at worst downright dishonest.


Fact 6 - When you pay a photographer, you're the customer.


The most obvious advantage of booking a photographer to shoot pictures expressly for your portfolio is that you get to choose the styles you want.


Before you even go near any agencies, you take time to  experiment a little. Discover what suits you, both in terms of your look and your attitudes and preferences.


You need to be brutally honest with yourself at this stage. 

- Don't aim for catwalk and high-fashion work if you aren't tall and slim because you'll just be wasting time and money.


- Equally, don't go into glamour work unless you are totally comfortable with your body being on show.


Even if you're not planning a glamour career, do be aware  that some degree of nudity is mainstream in just about all types of modelling these days. Have you seen a fashion show recently? Or most TV or magazine ads?


Conclusion - The Do's and Don'ts


Do spend a sensible amount of money on getting the right sort of photographs for your portfolio and z-cards.
Don't spend a fortune, but be ready to experiment. That unavoidably means wasting some time and cash.
Don't waste your time approaching agencies with snapshots. You'll get nowhere fast or taken for a fool.
Don't get 'makeover portraits' for a portfolio - that's a complete and very expensive waste of time.
Do think about the types of work you want to do and are likely to be offered and target them ruthlessly.

Good luck!

How Can You Become a Model?

You want to know how to be a Model?

It's a question we seem to get asked lots of times during a promotion such as our ModelGirl contest. It's a natural enough question to ask, but the answer is unfortunately neither clear cut nor simple.

First, decide what you mean by 'a model'

There are basically three types of modeling work:

• Fashion/Advertising/Commercial modelling
• Glamour modelling in all it's varied forms
• Art/Figure modelling

Urgent update 

If glamour modelling appeals to you, you might like to know that The Sun is currently running their annual 'Page 3 Idol' contest.

As you would expect, this is about Page 3 style topless and mainstream nude work for publication in one of the UK's  popular tabloid newspapers. It can be a viable route to making a name for yourself as a model, leading to other types of work later. While the Page 3 Girl is sometimes looked down upon by fashion models, she will most likely be paid far better and have more long-term career opportunities, too.

You will need good quality Page 3 style photographs to send to the newspaper in order to enter, but you can sort those out by entering our ModelGirl contest - choose the Page 3 category by entering at www.gibsonsphoto.co.uk/page3girl

The closing date for entries is not far off - do it today!

Types of Modelling - What's involved?

Fashion, Advertising and Commercial modelling is as old and traditional as the organised selling of goods. For as long as people have been making clothes, trinkets and other goods to be worn or used, models have been employed to demonstrate them. For example, fashion houses used to employ in-house models so that wealthy buyers could see the clothes they were considering purchasing being worn by a person rather than simply displayed. This wasn't a glamorous or special activity, in fact  models were mainly employed for other tasks, modelling only when a client required it.

Products other than clothes also need to be modelled, of course. Everything from earrings to cars, nappies to holiday locations. Models are used to illustrate concepts as diverse as slimming and financial security. In essence, whenever a product or service needs to be presented visually, a model will probably be required.

It's useful to realise that in all these cases, the models themselves are really not important. The idea is to demonstrate and sell the product or service. The model is just a means to do so more effectively. Any suitable model will do.

This type of modelling work is not particularly well paid, except for those who effectively cross over into glamour territory by establishing their own 'brand'. The few well known supermodels are well paid and can earn a whole lot more from their own merchandising too, but for most commercial models it's really just an ordinary day job.

Glamour modelling in it's modern form grew out of the idea of stardom - the appeal of individual performers above and beyond the performance itself. A glamour model does not illustrate a product or service, but is herself the main or only subject of the photograph or other work. Where commercial models are essentially anonymous and replaceable, glamour models are presented as individuals to be desired or emulated.

It's this personification which really defines the glamour model. The product being sold is effectively the model herself rather than whatever clothes or objects she wears or locations she inhabits.

The trend in recent decades to treat commercial models as 'supermodels', to allow their individual personalities to show through, often to the extent of making the model more important than the product, has significantly blurred the distinction between these two types of modelling.

Most glamour models have a rather short career. It is by it's nature a field where women want to remain girls for as long as possible and even a model in her late twenties will be generally seen as 'mature'.  While it lasts, it can be a fun, well paid job with paid trips to exotic places and loads of attention - stardom if you like. Most glamour models with any ideas about a longer term career will gradually try to extend their activities to acting, TV work or other areas only slightly related to glamour modelling. A few have successfully moved into managing later generations of glamour models.

Art and Figure modeling is where models are used to help visual artists represent humanity within artworks. As with traditional commercial modelling, the model is human but effectively depersonalised - simply a generic human form. It's still quite rare for Art/Figure modes to be known by name. While an artist will often choose to work with one or more models with whom a good working relationship has been established, it's the artist whose name is associated with the work rather than the model. It's not a route to fame for a model.

This type of modelling is not well paid, but work can be steady and may continue to be for many years. There is not the requirement to be young and pretty with a flawless complexion and perfect body in te way there is in commercial or glamour modelling. For many art/figure models, part of the motivation is to be involved in the creation of non-commercial art. If you have artistic aspirations, then you may well enjoy that aspect of this type of work.




Am I the right type?

Physical attributes

Commercial/Fashion models for mainstream work are usually required to be within a specific height range and build. Bluntly, if a woman is not between about 5'8"-5'10" and very slim, she's very unlikely to be successful as a mainstream fashion model. She may find a niche, because there are undoubtedly companies who cater for buyers who wouldn't aspire to the tall, slim look themselves. For those companies, a model is required who more closely matches the physical type of their clients. Such niches will always be tiny though, and it's hard to imagine anyone making a career, much less achieving fame in such a small market.

Art/Figure models can be much more varied in shape and size. The artist is the only person who will usually see them in person, and artists will work with models whose physical characteristics suit their own requirements. Anything from the tiniest of petite models to the largest Rubenesque figure will be required by someone, somewhere, sometime. As with niche commercial models, the career possibilities are unfortunately quite limited.

Glamour models are those who have the best career options. By glamour models, I mean in this instance any model whose individuality and personality are key to any work they do. It's because they have a unique selling point - being who they are - that they command higher rates and a bigger share of the fame than those models who remain essentially anonymous and hence easily replaceable.

Many so-called supermodels do not like to be referred to as 'glamour models'- it's not good for their perceived status to be associated with those models who are more brazen about using their bodies and more particularly their sexuality to achieve their own type of fame. But the truth is, all glamour models make a living from their physical presence and personality.

Conclusions

So, what's right for your career?

The key to making progress in your modelling career is to be brutally realistic about the types of work you are actually likely to get.

You could spend years chasing fashion work without success if you're not the right height or if you have a curvier figure. Conversely, glamour may be unrealstic for you if you are very skinny, though height is seldom a problem. If you are averse to being naked or almost naked, then neither glamour nor art/figure work will suit you, but it's fair to point out that a lot of fashion work these days also involves a degree of nudity.

As general advice, you should choose a category of modelling with which you are comfortable and have the right sort of body and face. After that, it's mainly a question of making yourself known to the huge number of agencies who handle the vast majority of bookings. And sheer, hard work and persistence.